Clamp the wood stock square in your 3D Carver. I used a Carvey.
Using a 1/8 inch twist drill bit allows for you to efficiently cut exact, round holes needed for your board. Make sure the drill bit is sharp! Please be sure that your drill bit is not too long for your machine’s Z-travel and will not hit your clamps.
Use the second workpiece to drill your holes.
Cribbage board holes are 1/8 inch nominal to fit tapered pegs. While Easel does not support drilling operations, it does support importing g-code.
This workpiece contains g-code that simulates Peck Drilling cycles (G83). Drill bit can get hot so between each set of 15 holes a 10s dwell cooling cycle is used. Do not be alarmed. Your carve has not stopped. Carvey can only handle a Z feed rate of 800mm/min so this workpiece runs the spindle at 8000 rpm instead of 12000 rpm. Do not be alarmed. This is done so your wood does not burn…too much.
It is nice to have the visual guides of the tracks that run along the path of the holes. This helps count fives and keep you in your track. This is optional. Sometimes you just want the grain of the wood to show through unfettered by the tracks.
Use a small diameter bit like 1/32 inch.
Use the 3rd workpiece to carve the outline of your piece from your stock. It is important to measure the height of your wood accurately so that your piece can be cut out cleanly from your stock without cutting too far into your waste board and eliminating the usefulness of the tabs.
Use a bit like 1/8 inch straight two flute that can cut deeper than 3/4 inch.
Remove your piece from the stock by cleanly breaking or cutting the tabs. Sand these tabs nearly flat with a sander or coarse sandpaper. Use fine grit sandpaper to sand all sides and add a slight chamfer. Use a stain or a wood oil like mineral oil to finish your wood to protect it from finger prints and old-fashions.